Frequently Asked Questions

The Las Vegas climate causes significant evaporation. Pools commonly lose ¼ to ½ inch per day in summer just to heat and dry air. If you're losing more than that, or losing water consistently year-round, you likely have a leak. The bucket test is the easiest first check: float a bucket of pool water on a step and compare evaporation rates over 24 hours.

We combine pressure testing, electronic listening equipment, dye testing, and camera inspection. The pool stays full for nearly every detection. Draining is rare and only used as a last resort.

Most detections take one to two hours on site. Complex cases with multiple leaks or underground plumbing involvement can take longer, but we'll flag that early in the visit so there are no surprises.

We're up front about scope before we start. On the rare occasion a leak is hidden in a way our standard methods can't catch, we'll tell you what additional steps would be required (and the cost) before doing them. We don't bill for diagnostics we can't deliver on.

Yes. Underground plumbing leaks are some of the most common in older Vegas-area pools. The pool shell can be perfectly intact while a buried PVC line slowly bleeds water for months.

Spas pack more plumbing, jets, and equipment into a smaller footprint, which can make leaks trickier to localize, but the same detection techniques apply. We detect spa leaks just as efficiently as pool leaks.

We focus on built-in spas: in-ground spas, raised spas, and pool-attached spas, which is what most Las Vegas backyards have. We can sometimes help with portable hot tub plumbing leaks but generally don't service hot tub shells or electronics.

Cracked spa shells, failed jet fittings, leaking heater unions, deteriorated PVC fittings at the equipment pad, and freeze damage on outdoor spas during winter cold snaps. Vegas isn't tropical: desert nights drop into the 20s, and unprotected spa plumbing pays the price.

Most spa leaks at jets, fittings, and heater unions are same-day repairs. Shell cracks and underground plumbing typically require a return visit.

A leaking skimmer often shows up as water loss that stops at a specific level, usually right at the bottom of the skimmer mouth. You may also see soggy ground or a deck crack near the skimmer. Common fixes are crack repair, plastic skimmer replacement, and reseating.

Yes. The light niche is a wet-side fitting, and the conduit running back to the junction box is a known leak path. Water can travel through the conduit and exit through electrical penetrations elsewhere on the deck. Light niche leaks are one of the more common hidden sources.

Pump leaks (shaft seals, unions, housings), filter leaks (multiport valves, tank o-rings, drain plugs), heater leaks (manifolds, headers, pressure switches), valve leaks, and plumbing leaks at the equipment pad.

Depends on the age of the unit, the part that's failing, and the cost gap. We give you both options with honest pricing. We're not working off a quota to push new equipment when a $40 seal will do the job.

A dripping shaft seal won't sink your backyard, but it's a sign the seal is on its way out and the motor is at risk if water reaches the bearings. Sooner is cheaper than later. Same logic for unions and housings: small drips become big problems when ignored through a Vegas summer.